Tsukiji vs Toyosu: Understanding the Split
In 2018, Tokyo's legendary wholesale fish market moved from Tsukiji to the modern Toyosu Market on a reclaimed island in Tokyo Bay. The wholesale auction and professional traders are now at Toyosu (Shijo-mae Station, Yurikamome Line). However, the famous Tsukiji Outer Market (jogai shijo) remained and still thrives — over 400 shops and restaurants serving tourists and locals. So today you have two destinations: Toyosu for the spectacle of professional fish trading, Tsukiji for eating and browsing street food.
Tip: Visit Tsukiji for eating (open from ~5 AM, best 7-10 AM), Toyosu for the tuna auction experience (viewing gallery opens 5:30 AM, arrive by 5 AM).
Toyosu Market: The Tuna Auction
Toyosu's tuna auction is one of Tokyo's most extraordinary experiences. Giant bluefin tuna (some weighing 200-400kg, valued at ¥1-10 million each) are laid out on the floor as buyers inspect quality with flashlights and experience. The auction begins at 5:30 AM and is visible from a glass-walled gallery above. Registration is not required for the viewing gallery but arrive before 5 AM on weekdays (weekends and Wednesdays are closed). After watching, eat at the market's restaurant floor — Sushi Dai and Daiwa Sushi relocated here with shorter queues than their Tsukiji days.
Tsukiji Outer Market: Best Food Stalls
The Tsukiji Outer Market is a warren of narrow lanes packed with food. Must-eat items: Tamagoyaki (sweet Japanese omelette on a stick, ¥100-200) from Yamachou or Shouro. Fresh oysters (¥500-800 each) grilled on the spot. Uni (sea urchin) on rice crackers (¥500). Tuna skewers — grilled otoro for ¥800. Ichigo daifuku (strawberry mochi, ¥300). Turret coffee for excellent pour-over after your food tour. Most stalls open by 7 AM and many sell out by noon. The market is closed Sundays and some Wednesdays.
Best Sushi Restaurants at Both Markets
At Toyosu: Sushi Dai (omakase from ¥4,000, expect 1-2 hour wait) remains the most popular. Iwasa Sushi offers comparable quality with shorter waits, chirashi bowl ¥2,800. At Tsukiji Outer Market: Sushi Zanmai (24-hour chain, sets from ¥1,500) is tourist-friendly with English menus. Tsukiji Sushiko (omakase lunch ¥3,300) is quieter with excellent quality. For standing sushi (tachigui), try Tsukiji Tamasushi — nigiri pieces from ¥150 each, eat 8-10 pieces for under ¥2,000.
Practical Tips for Market Visits
Both markets are closed on Sundays, national holidays, and some Wednesdays (check the official calendar online). Bring cash — many stalls at Tsukiji do not accept cards. Wear comfortable shoes (floors can be wet). Do not block narrow pathways or touch products without buying. Morning is best (7-10 AM) before tour groups arrive. From central Tokyo: Tsukiji is a 1-minute walk from Tsukiji Station (Hibiya Line) or Tsukiji-shijo Station (Oedo Line). Toyosu Market is at Shijo-mae Station on the Yurikamome Line from Shimbashi (15 minutes, ¥390).
