Day 1: Sendai — City of Trees
Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai in just 90 minutes (JR Pass). Sendai is the region's largest city (1 million people) and the gateway to the north. Visit Zuihoden mausoleum (¥580) — the ornate final resting place of Date Masamune, the one-eyed dragon lord who founded the city. Walk the tree-lined Jozenji-dori boulevard. For lunch: gyutan (grilled beef tongue) is Sendai's signature dish — try Rikyu or Kisuke near Sendai Station (set meal ¥1,800). Evening: explore the Kokubuncho entertainment district or take the JR Senseki Line to Matsushima Bay (40 minutes) for sunset over the pine-covered islands.
Tip: Sendai's Tanabata Festival (August 6-8) is one of Japan's largest, with enormous colorful paper decorations hanging throughout the shopping arcades.
Day 2: Matsushima and Yamadera
Morning: cruise Matsushima Bay (¥1,500, 50 minutes) — 260 pine-covered islands that poet Basho called so beautiful they left him speechless. Visit Zuiganji temple (¥700), a stunning Zen temple in a cedar grove with peacocks roaming the grounds. Lunch: grilled oysters at the many stalls near the pier (¥500 for 3). Afternoon: JR to Yamadera (Mountain Temple, 1 hour from Matsushima via Sendai). Climb 1,015 stone steps through ancient cedar forest to Risshakuji temple perched on a cliff edge (¥300). The summit view across the valley inspired Basho's famous haiku. Return to Sendai.
Tip: Yamadera's 1,015 steps take 25-40 minutes depending on fitness. The climb is gradual and shaded — manageable for most visitors with rest stops along the way.
Days 3-4: Ginzan Onsen and Tsuruoka
Day 3: JR to Oishida Station (1 hour from Sendai), then bus to Ginzan Onsen (40 minutes, ¥730). This tiny hot spring village in a river gorge looks frozen in the Taisho era (1912-1926) — wooden ryokan three stories tall line both sides of the river, lit by gas lamps at night. It reportedly inspired the bathhouse in Spirited Away. The public foot bath (free) and Shirogane Falls (5-minute walk) are delightful. Stay overnight in a ryokan (from ¥15,000/person with meals). Day 4: Morning soak, then travel to Tsuruoka (2 hours by local train). Visit the Dewa Sanzan sacred mountains — Haguro-san's 2,446-step stone staircase through cedar forest to the five-story pagoda (National Treasure, free) is spiritual and magnificent.
Tip: Ginzan Onsen has only a dozen ryokan and books out months ahead in autumn and winter. Reserve 3-4 months in advance for peak seasons.
Day 5: Kakunodate — Samurai Town
JR to Kakunodate via Akita Shinkansen from Omagari (total 2-3 hours from Tsuruoka with transfers). Kakunodate preserves an entire samurai district with black-walled wooden mansions behind weeping cherry trees. Six samurai houses are open to visitors (most free, Aoyagi-ke ¥500 for the most extensive). The Bukeyashiki-dori (samurai house street) is 600 meters of perfectly preserved Edo-period architecture. Cherry trees here bloom late April — the weeping varieties draped over black walls are particularly photogenic. Afternoon: rent a bicycle (¥300/hour) to explore the merchant district and riverside paths.
Tip: Visit the Ando Brewery (free) for a taste of amazake and miso — they have been brewing in the same building since the Edo period.
Days 6-7: Lake Towada and Oirase Stream
Day 6: Bus from Kakunodate or Morioka (2-3 hours) to Lake Towada, a pristine caldera lake in the mountains. The Oirase Stream trail (14 km, 4-5 hours walking) follows a clear mountain stream through primeval beech forest with dozens of waterfalls and moss-covered boulders. It is considered one of Japan's most beautiful nature walks — especially in October when the forest turns gold and red. Start from Nenokuchi bus stop and walk downstream to Yakeyama (or take the bus and stop at viewpoints). Day 7: Morning at the lake, then bus to Shin-Aomori Station (90 minutes) for the Tohoku Shinkansen back to Tokyo (3 hours). Total budget: ¥80,000-¥120,000 for 7 days.
Tip: The Oirase Stream is walkable year-round but peaks in mid-October for autumn foliage and early June for fresh greenery and maximum waterfall flow from snowmelt.
