Day 1: Takamatsu — Udon Paradise
Arrive in Takamatsu via JR from Okayama (55 minutes across the Seto Ohashi Bridge, scenic views). Takamatsu is Japan's udon capital — Sanuki udon here is chewier, fresher, and cheaper than anywhere else. Hit at least two shops: Udon Baka Ichidai for butter udon (¥490), Nagata in Kanoka for the classic kake udon (¥230), or Yamada-ya for their premium version (¥390). Afternoon: Ritsurin Garden (¥410) — one of Japan's finest landscape gardens with six ponds and thirteen hills against the backdrop of Mt. Shiun. Rent a boat on the pond (¥620). Evening: walk the Sunport harbor area.
Tip: Udon shops in Kagawa open early (some from 6 AM) and close when they sell out (often by 2 PM). Go early for fresh noodles made that morning.
Day 2: Iya Valley
Rent a car (essential for Iya Valley — public transport is minimal). Drive 1.5 hours south from Takamatsu into the dramatic Iya Valley — one of Japan's three most secluded regions. Cross the Kazurabashi vine bridge (¥550) — a 45-meter span of mountain vines swaying above a turquoise river (rebuilt every 3 years). Take the cable car at Hotel Iya Onsen to reach an outdoor bath perched above the river gorge (day use ¥1,700). Drive further to the double vine bridges at Oku-Iya (¥550) where you can also ride a hand-pulled cable car across the river (¥500). Stay overnight in the valley at a traditional farmhouse (from ¥8,000).
Tip: The Kazurabashi vine bridge has gaps between planks — you can see the river 14 meters below. It is perfectly safe but terrifying if you dislike heights. Go early morning to avoid tourist bottlenecks.
Day 3: Oboke Gorge and Pilgrimage Temples
Morning: boat ride through Oboke Gorge (¥1,200, 30 minutes) — the Yoshino River has carved dramatic marble-like cliffs over millennia. The emerald water against white rock formations is stunning. Afternoon: drive to the pilgrimage trail region around Tokushima Prefecture. Visit Temple 1 (Ryozen-ji) where the 88-temple pilgrimage begins (free), and Temple 11 (Fujii-dera) for its ancient atmosphere. The full 1,200 km pilgrimage takes 30-60 days on foot, but visiting a few temples gives a taste of this living spiritual tradition dating to the 9th century. Evening: drive toward Matsuyama (2.5 hours).
Tip: White-clothed walking pilgrims (o-henro-san) are a common sight throughout Shikoku. It is customary to offer them a small gift (osettai) — a drink or snack is traditional.
Day 4: Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen
Matsuyama offers two world-class attractions. Matsuyama Castle perches on a hilltop reached by chairlift or ropeway (¥520 one-way) — one of twelve original castles with excellent armor displays and panoramic views (¥520 entry). Dogo Onsen is Japan's oldest hot spring (mentioned in 8th-century texts) — the ornate 1894 bathhouse inspired Spirited Away's bathhouse. Three bathing courses available: Kami-no-Yu ground floor (¥700), Tama-no-Ishino-Yu second floor (¥1,280 with tea room), or the premium Asuka-no-Yu wing (¥1,820). The bathhouse exterior is spectacularly lit at night. Stay near Dogo Onsen for the full experience.
Tip: The Botchan mechanical clock outside Dogo Onsen station performs every hour — characters from Natsume Soseki's novel emerge from the clock. Watch the 6 PM show as the bathhouse lights come on.
Day 5: Shimanto River and Departure
Drive south to the Shimanto River (2.5 hours from Matsuyama) — Japan's last major undammed river, known as the last clear stream. Rent a canoe and paddle past traditional chinkabashi (submersible bridges designed to let floodwaters pass over rather than destroying them). The river is transparent enough to see fish below. Cycling along the riverside road is equally beautiful (rental from ¥1,000/day in Nakamura town). Afternoon: return car and depart from Kochi Airport (1 hour from Shimanto) or drive back to Takamatsu. Total Shikoku 5-day budget: ¥60,000-¥80,000 plus car rental (¥5,000-¥8,000/day).
