Yokohama: Japan's Surprising Second City
Just 30 minutes south of Tokyo by train, Yokohama is Japan's second-largest city with 3.7 million residents — yet it maintains its own distinct identity. While Tokyo sprawled inland, Yokohama grew along its waterfront, giving it a spacious, breezy character with wide bayside promenades, art deco warehouses turned shopping malls, and Japan's largest Chinatown. The city was one of the first ports opened to foreign trade in 1859, and that international DNA still defines its personality.
Yokohama works perfectly as a day trip from Tokyo or as an alternative base with lower hotel prices. Its compact waterfront area connects Chinatown, the Red Brick Warehouse district, Minato Mirai's futuristic skyline, and Yamashita Park in one walkable strip along the bay.
Yokohama works perfectly as a day trip from Tokyo or as an alternative base with lower hotel prices. Its compact waterfront area connects Chinatown, the Red Brick Warehouse district, Minato Mirai's futuristic skyline, and Yamashita Park in one walkable strip along the bay.
Tip: The Minato Mirai line from Shibuya reaches Yokohama in 30 minutes and connects directly to the waterfront — no transfers needed.
Yokohama Chinatown
Yokohama Chinatown is the largest in Japan and one of the biggest in the world, with over 500 shops and restaurants packed into a colorful grid of streets marked by ornate gates. Unlike some tourist-trap Chinatowns, the food here is genuinely excellent — many restaurants are run by multi-generational Chinese families.
Must-eat: Heichinrou (since 1884, lunch sets from ¥2,200) for refined Cantonese dim sum. Manchinrou for juicy nikuman (steamed pork buns, ¥500). Street food stalls sell sesame dango, fried xiaolongbao, and roasted chestnuts. For an experience, book Jukei Hanten (Sichuan, dinner from ¥3,500) or try all-you-can-eat dim sum at Rou Rou (¥2,980/90 minutes). The neighborhood is most atmospheric in the evening when red lanterns illuminate the streets.
Must-eat: Heichinrou (since 1884, lunch sets from ¥2,200) for refined Cantonese dim sum. Manchinrou for juicy nikuman (steamed pork buns, ¥500). Street food stalls sell sesame dango, fried xiaolongbao, and roasted chestnuts. For an experience, book Jukei Hanten (Sichuan, dinner from ¥3,500) or try all-you-can-eat dim sum at Rou Rou (¥2,980/90 minutes). The neighborhood is most atmospheric in the evening when red lanterns illuminate the streets.
Tip: Chinatown is packed on weekends. Visit on a weekday evening for the best combination of atmosphere and manageable crowds.
Minato Mirai & Waterfront
The Minato Mirai 21 district is Yokohama's modern waterfront — gleaming towers, a massive Ferris wheel, and the sail-shaped Intercontinental Hotel create a dramatic skyline. The Landmark Tower observation deck (¥1,000, 69th floor) offers 360-degree views stretching to Mount Fuji on clear days. The Cosmo Clock 21 Ferris wheel (¥900, 15 minutes) is spectacular at night.
The Red Brick Warehouses (Akarenga) — built in 1911 — now house boutiques, cafes, and event spaces with a pleasant brick courtyard. The Cup Noodles Museum (¥500) lets you create custom instant noodles and traces Momofuku Ando's invention story. The Yokohama Art Museum (¥500) has strong modern collections. Walk the Kishamichi Promenade — a converted railway track — connecting these waterfront attractions along the harbor.
The Red Brick Warehouses (Akarenga) — built in 1911 — now house boutiques, cafes, and event spaces with a pleasant brick courtyard. The Cup Noodles Museum (¥500) lets you create custom instant noodles and traces Momofuku Ando's invention story. The Yokohama Art Museum (¥500) has strong modern collections. Walk the Kishamichi Promenade — a converted railway track — connecting these waterfront attractions along the harbor.
Tip: Visit the Cup Noodles Museum on a weekday morning to avoid the 1-2 hour weekend queues for the custom noodle-making experience.
Craft Beer & Food Scene
Yokohama is considered the birthplace of Japanese beer — Kirin Brewery was founded here in 1885 (the Kirin Beer Village in Tsurumi offers free tours with tastings, reservation required). Today the city has a thriving craft beer scene. Baird Beer Taproom in Bashamichi serves 20+ taps of excellent craft beer. Thrash Zone in Kannai is a standing bar with rotating local microbrews.
Beyond beer, Yokohama's food reflects its international port heritage. Sanma no Mise near the Red Brick Warehouses serves creative Japanese-Western fusion. The Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum (¥380 entry, ramen extra) recreates a 1958 Tokyo streetscape with nine ramen shops representing styles from across Japan — order mini bowls (¥500-600) to taste several. Noge district has dozens of tiny yakitori and standing bars popular with salary workers.
Beyond beer, Yokohama's food reflects its international port heritage. Sanma no Mise near the Red Brick Warehouses serves creative Japanese-Western fusion. The Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum (¥380 entry, ramen extra) recreates a 1958 Tokyo streetscape with nine ramen shops representing styles from across Japan — order mini bowls (¥500-600) to taste several. Noge district has dozens of tiny yakitori and standing bars popular with salary workers.
Tip: At the Ramen Museum, order 'mini' (small) portions to try 3-4 different regional styles in one visit. Each shop offers a reduced portion for around ¥500-600.
Getting There & Around
From Tokyo, reach Yokohama by JR Tokaido/Yokosuka Line (25 minutes from Tokyo Station, ¥480), Tokyu Toyoko Line (30 minutes from Shibuya, ¥280), or JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line (30 minutes from Shinjuku, ¥580). All are covered by Suica/Pasmo cards. The Minato Mirai Line continues from Yokohama Station to the waterfront area — get off at Minato Mirai, Bashamichi, or Motomachi-Chukagai (Chinatown) stations.
The waterfront area is very walkable — Chinatown to Minato Mirai is about 25 minutes on foot along pleasant harbor paths. A Sea Bass water bus (¥700) connects Yokohama Station's east exit to the Red Brick Warehouses and Yamashita Park with harbor views. The Yokohama City Loop Bus (Akaikutsu, ¥220/ride or ¥500/day) circuits all major tourist spots every 15-20 minutes.
The waterfront area is very walkable — Chinatown to Minato Mirai is about 25 minutes on foot along pleasant harbor paths. A Sea Bass water bus (¥700) connects Yokohama Station's east exit to the Red Brick Warehouses and Yamashita Park with harbor views. The Yokohama City Loop Bus (Akaikutsu, ¥220/ride or ¥500/day) circuits all major tourist spots every 15-20 minutes.
Tip: Walk the entire waterfront from Yamashita Park through the Red Brick Warehouse to Minato Mirai — it's a beautiful 40-minute stroll along the harbor with no backtracking needed.
