Takamatsu: Gateway to Udon Paradise
Takamatsu is the capital of Kagawa Prefecture — Japan's smallest prefecture by area but its undisputed udon capital. Kagawa consumes more udon per capita than anywhere else in Japan, with over 600 udon shops serving the local sanuki udon style (thick, chewy, satisfying). The city sits on the Seto Inland Sea coast with easy ferry access to Naoshima and the art islands that have made this region internationally famous.
Beyond udon, Takamatsu offers Ritsurin Garden (one of Japan's finest), a lively waterfront, and serves as the starting point for Shikoku's famous 88-temple pilgrimage route. The city is compact and bicycle-friendly, with a pleasant mix of traditional covered shopping arcades and modern waterfront developments. Direct trains from Okayama (1 hour by Marine Liner, ¥1,560) make it easily accessible from the Shinkansen network.
Beyond udon, Takamatsu offers Ritsurin Garden (one of Japan's finest), a lively waterfront, and serves as the starting point for Shikoku's famous 88-temple pilgrimage route. The city is compact and bicycle-friendly, with a pleasant mix of traditional covered shopping arcades and modern waterfront developments. Direct trains from Okayama (1 hour by Marine Liner, ¥1,560) make it easily accessible from the Shinkansen network.
Tip: Kagawa Prefecture has over 600 udon shops. Download the 'Udon Taxi' app or hire an udon taxi driver (¥5,040/hour) who takes you to hidden local favorites that no guidebook lists.
Sanuki Udon: A Pilgrimage of Its Own
Sanuki udon is Kagawa's obsession — thick, glossy, remarkably chewy noodles that snap between your teeth. The simplest serving is kamaage (hot noodles from the pot with dipping sauce), but cold bukkake (with toppings and soy broth poured over) and kake (in hot dashi broth) are equally popular. Most shops are self-service: order at the counter, add tempura from the rack, and pay — a filling meal costs ¥300-500.
Essential shops: Udon Baka Ichidai (famous for butter udon, ¥490, queues from 7 AM). Yamada-ya (refined setting, ¥420 for kake). Nakano Udon School (¥1,760, make your own noodles by stomping dough — fun and delicious). Wara-ya (dramatic thatched-roof building, giant bowls). Many top shops are in rural Kagawa, 20-40 minutes from Takamatsu by car — renting a car enables the best udon pilgrimage.
Essential shops: Udon Baka Ichidai (famous for butter udon, ¥490, queues from 7 AM). Yamada-ya (refined setting, ¥420 for kake). Nakano Udon School (¥1,760, make your own noodles by stomping dough — fun and delicious). Wara-ya (dramatic thatched-roof building, giant bowls). Many top shops are in rural Kagawa, 20-40 minutes from Takamatsu by car — renting a car enables the best udon pilgrimage.
Tip: Udon shops in Kagawa often close by 2 PM when noodles sell out. Start your udon crawl early (before 11 AM) and hit 2-3 shops — portions are small and cheap enough to manage.
Ritsurin Garden
Ritsurin Garden (¥410) took over 100 years to complete and is considered one of Japan's finest strolling gardens — some argue it surpasses even Kenroku-en. The 75-hectare garden uses Mount Shiun as borrowed scenery, with six ponds, 13 artificial hills, and over 1,000 meticulously pruned pine trees. The south garden is the formal masterpiece; the north garden has a more natural English-park feel.
Highlights include the Kikugetsu-tei tea house (matcha and sweets ¥700, served overlooking the south pond — possibly Japan's most scenic tea setting) and the Hirai Sanso residence area. Early morning visits (the garden opens at sunrise, 5:30-7 AM seasonally) offer mist over the ponds and solitude. The garden is beautiful in every season but peaks during autumn foliage (late November) and spring wisteria/cherry blossom (early April).
Highlights include the Kikugetsu-tei tea house (matcha and sweets ¥700, served overlooking the south pond — possibly Japan's most scenic tea setting) and the Hirai Sanso residence area. Early morning visits (the garden opens at sunrise, 5:30-7 AM seasonally) offer mist over the ponds and solitude. The garden is beautiful in every season but peaks during autumn foliage (late November) and spring wisteria/cherry blossom (early April).
Tip: Ritsurin Garden opens at sunrise — the exact time changes seasonally (5:30 AM in summer, 7:00 AM in winter). The first hour is practically empty and ethereally beautiful.
Art Islands: Naoshima & Beyond
The Seto Inland Sea art islands are accessible by ferry from Takamatsu Port. Naoshima (50-60 minutes by ferry, ¥1,000; or 30 minutes by high-speed boat, ¥1,230) is the most famous — home to Tadao Ando's Chichu Art Museum (¥2,100, must book online), the Benesse House complex, Yayoi Kusama's yellow pumpkin, and the Art House Project turning abandoned houses into installations.
Teshima (35 minutes by ferry) has the stunning Teshima Art Museum — a single concrete shell open to the sky (¥1,570). Shodoshima (1 hour by ferry) offers olive groves, soy sauce breweries, and gorge scenery. During the Setouchi Triennale (next edition 2028), additional islands and outdoor artworks open. Book Chichu Art Museum tickets online in advance (often sold out) — walk-ins are not guaranteed.
Teshima (35 minutes by ferry) has the stunning Teshima Art Museum — a single concrete shell open to the sky (¥1,570). Shodoshima (1 hour by ferry) offers olive groves, soy sauce breweries, and gorge scenery. During the Setouchi Triennale (next edition 2028), additional islands and outdoor artworks open. Book Chichu Art Museum tickets online in advance (often sold out) — walk-ins are not guaranteed.
Tip: Rent a bicycle on Naoshima (electric-assist ¥1,500/day) — the island is hilly but small, and cycling between art sites is much more efficient than the infrequent bus.
Getting There & Practical Tips
From Okayama (Shinkansen station), take the JR Marine Liner across the Seto Ohashi Bridge to Takamatsu (1 hour, ¥1,560). From Tokyo, fly to Takamatsu Airport (80 minutes, ANA/JAL) then airport bus to city center (40 minutes, ¥1,000). From Osaka, JR limited express Uzushio via Okayama takes about 2 hours. The Takamatsu-Kotohira Electric Railway (Kotoden) connects city attractions, and the city is one of Japan's most bicycle-friendly — free rental bikes are available at several points.
For art island ferries, depart from Takamatsu Port (15-minute walk from JR Station). Buy ferry tickets at the terminal. Island accommodation is limited — most visitors day-trip from Takamatsu. The Takamatsu Marugame-machi covered shopping arcade is one of Japan's longest, with local shops and restaurants. Hotels cluster around JR Takamatsu Station and Kawaramachi/Ritsurin areas.
For art island ferries, depart from Takamatsu Port (15-minute walk from JR Station). Buy ferry tickets at the terminal. Island accommodation is limited — most visitors day-trip from Takamatsu. The Takamatsu Marugame-machi covered shopping arcade is one of Japan's longest, with local shops and restaurants. Hotels cluster around JR Takamatsu Station and Kawaramachi/Ritsurin areas.
Tip: Stay near Takamatsu Port if visiting the art islands — early morning ferries (7-8 AM departures) let you maximize time on Naoshima before day-trippers arrive from Okayama.
