Matsuyama: Shikoku's Largest City
Matsuyama is the capital of Ehime Prefecture and Shikoku's largest city (510,000 people), yet it retains a small-town warmth that makes it one of Japan's most likeable cities. Its two main draws — Dogo Onsen (Japan's oldest hot spring, said to be 3,000 years old) and a beautifully preserved hilltop castle — are enough reason to visit. But Matsuyama also offers literary heritage (it's the setting of Natsume Soseki's novel Botchan), excellent citrus-based cuisine, and easy access to the Shimanami Kaido cycling route.
The city has a pleasant, walkable center connected by vintage streetcars that add to its nostalgic atmosphere. Shikoku remains one of Japan's least-visited regions by international tourists, meaning Matsuyama offers authentic experiences without the crowds of Kyoto or Tokyo.
The city has a pleasant, walkable center connected by vintage streetcars that add to its nostalgic atmosphere. Shikoku remains one of Japan's least-visited regions by international tourists, meaning Matsuyama offers authentic experiences without the crowds of Kyoto or Tokyo.
Tip: Matsuyama's vintage streetcars cost just ¥180 per ride (day pass ¥800) and give the city an old-fashioned charm. Line 5 connects the station directly to Dogo Onsen.
Dogo Onsen: Japan's Oldest Hot Spring
Dogo Onsen Honkan is a grand wooden bathhouse built in 1894 that inspired the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's Spirited Away. The three-story castle-like structure is a designated Important Cultural Property. Currently undergoing phased renovation (completion ~2027), the first-floor public bath remains open (¥700 for Kami-no-Yu). The hot alkaline waters are said to heal skin ailments and fatigue.
The newer Dogo Onsen Asuka-no-Yu (¥600) next door offers a modern alternative with the same thermal water in a beautifully designed facility. The Dogo shopping arcade leading to the bathhouse is lined with souvenir shops, cafes, and small ryokan. In the evening, guests in yukata (cotton robes) stroll between their ryokan and the bathhouses — a scene unchanged for generations. The free Botchan Karakuri Clock outside performs mechanical puppet shows every 30 minutes from 8 AM to 10 PM.
The newer Dogo Onsen Asuka-no-Yu (¥600) next door offers a modern alternative with the same thermal water in a beautifully designed facility. The Dogo shopping arcade leading to the bathhouse is lined with souvenir shops, cafes, and small ryokan. In the evening, guests in yukata (cotton robes) stroll between their ryokan and the bathhouses — a scene unchanged for generations. The free Botchan Karakuri Clock outside performs mechanical puppet shows every 30 minutes from 8 AM to 10 PM.
Tip: Visit Dogo Onsen Honkan early morning (opens 6 AM) for the most peaceful bathing experience and shortest queues. Evening hours (after 8 PM) are also quieter.
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle (¥520) is one of only 12 original castles remaining in Japan — its wooden keep has survived since 1627 without reconstruction. Perched atop Mount Katsuyama (132m) in the city center, it offers 360-degree views of Matsuyama, the Seto Inland Sea, and the Shikoku mountains. Access is by ropeway/chairlift (¥520 one way, ¥1,040 return included with castle entry combo ¥1,040) or a 20-minute walk up the wooded hillside.
The castle's defensive features — steep stone walls, interconnected turrets, and narrow murder holes — are among the most sophisticated in Japan. Cherry blossoms (200 trees) in early April make the castle grounds spectacular. The Ninomaru Historical Garden (¥200) at the base was the lord's residence — now a peaceful garden with citrus groves and restored features. The chairlift offers open-air views and operates in all weather except typhoons.
The castle's defensive features — steep stone walls, interconnected turrets, and narrow murder holes — are among the most sophisticated in Japan. Cherry blossoms (200 trees) in early April make the castle grounds spectacular. The Ninomaru Historical Garden (¥200) at the base was the lord's residence — now a peaceful garden with citrus groves and restored features. The chairlift offers open-air views and operates in all weather except typhoons.
Tip: Take the chairlift up (open-air views) and ropeway down (enclosed, faster) for the best of both experiences. The chairlift runs even in light rain.
Local Cuisine & Specialties
Ehime Prefecture is Japan's top citrus producer, and mikan (mandarin oranges) flavor everything in Matsuyama — juice, soft serve, jam, and even mikan-fed tai (sea bream). Tai-meshi (sea bream rice) comes in two styles: the Matsuyama version serves flaked grilled fish over rice, while the southern Uwajima style is raw fish over rice with egg sauce. Try both at Kadoya near Okaido (sets from ¥1,400).
Jakoten is a Shikoku specialty — small fish ground whole (bones included) and deep-fried into savory flat cakes (¥200-300). Imotaki (taro stew, autumn only) is a hearty communal dish eaten outdoors along rivers in September-October. The Dogo shopping arcade sells excellent mikan products, Imabari towels (Japan's finest), and tart (a local custard-topped sponge cake, ¥150/piece at Hatada).
Jakoten is a Shikoku specialty — small fish ground whole (bones included) and deep-fried into savory flat cakes (¥200-300). Imotaki (taro stew, autumn only) is a hearty communal dish eaten outdoors along rivers in September-October. The Dogo shopping arcade sells excellent mikan products, Imabari towels (Japan's finest), and tart (a local custard-topped sponge cake, ¥150/piece at Hatada).
Tip: Buy fresh-squeezed mikan juice from the orange juice taps in Dogo arcade and Matsuyama airport — ¥350 for a cup of varieties you've never tasted before.
Getting There & Around
Matsuyama is connected to the mainland by the Shimanami Kaido bridge route (great for cycling), ferries from Hiroshima (SuperJet hydrofoil, 68 minutes, ¥7,800), and flights from Tokyo (90 minutes, ANA/JAL). The JR Yosan Line connects to Takamatsu (2.5 hours) and Okayama (via Marine Liner, 4 hours total). The nearest Shinkansen station is Okayama — connect by limited express Shiokaze (2 hours 40 minutes, ¥7,300).
Within Matsuyama, the Iyotetsu streetcar network covers the city effectively. Line 5 connects JR Matsuyama Station to Dogo Onsen via the city center (Okaido/Matsuyama-shi stations). The city center is flat and walkable between the castle ropeway station, Okaido shopping arcade, and Matsuyama-shi Station. For the Shimanami Kaido, rent bicycles in nearby Imabari (40 minutes by train).
Within Matsuyama, the Iyotetsu streetcar network covers the city effectively. Line 5 connects JR Matsuyama Station to Dogo Onsen via the city center (Okaido/Matsuyama-shi stations). The city center is flat and walkable between the castle ropeway station, Okaido shopping arcade, and Matsuyama-shi Station. For the Shimanami Kaido, rent bicycles in nearby Imabari (40 minutes by train).
Tip: The Hiroshima-Matsuyama SuperJet ferry is a scenic and efficient way to connect western Honshu with Shikoku — 68 minutes across the Seto Inland Sea with island views.
