Getting to Miyajima
Miyajima island is 60 minutes from Hiroshima. Take the JR Sanyo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi (27 min, ¥420, covered by JR Pass), then a 10-minute ferry (¥180, or free with JR Pass on the JR West ferry). Ferries run every 10-15 minutes from 6am to 10pm. The entire trip is JR Pass-friendly. Alternatively, high-speed ferries depart directly from Hiroshima Peace Park (¥2,200 one-way, 45 min) — scenic but expensive. The island is car-free and walkable; all major sights are within 30 minutes of the ferry terminal.
Tip: Take the JR West ferry (not the Matsudai ferry) going TO the island — it detours past the torii gate for photos from the water.
The Floating Torii Gate
The O-Torii (Grand Torii) standing in the sea is one of Japan's most iconic images. The current gate (rebuilt 1875) stands 16.6 meters tall in vermillion camphor wood. At high tide, it appears to float on the water — magical for photos. At low tide, you can walk out across the sand to its base and place coins in the cracks (for luck). Check tide tables at the tourist office; the best photos are at high tide from the shrine terrace or the hillside behind. Sunset is spectacular when the gate silhouettes against the orange sky.
Tip: Check tide charts before visiting — high tide is more photogenic, but walking to the base at low tide is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Both are worth seeing.
Itsukushima Shrine & Sacred Island
Itsukushima Shrine (¥300) is built on stilts over the water, dating to the 6th century with its current form from 1168. The vermillion corridors, stages, and buildings create one of Japan's most beautiful shrine complexes — especially at high tide when it appears to float. The island itself has been sacred for so long that historically no births or deaths were permitted. Wild deer roam the streets (less aggressive than Nara's). The five-story pagoda (1407, exterior only) and Senjokaku Hall (¥100, massive wooden hall with hundreds of paintings) sit on the hill above.
Tip: Visit the shrine early morning (opens 6:30am) when you might have it completely to yourself — most tourists arrive after 10am.
Mt Misen Hike & Ropeway
Mt Misen (535m) is the island's highest point and offers incredible views across the Seto Inland Sea. The ropeway (¥1,840 round trip) takes you most of the way up in two stages, then a 20-minute walk reaches the summit observatory. Alternatively, three hiking trails lead to the top (60-90 min up): Momijidani (easiest, through maple valley), Daisho-in (via the temple), and Omoto (most challenging). At the summit, the eternal flame at Reikado Hall has supposedly burned for 1,200 years since Kobo Daishi's meditation here.
Tip: Hike up via Daisho-in trail (passes beautiful temple grounds) and take the ropeway down — saves knees and you still get the hiking experience.
Food & Shopping on Miyajima
Miyajima's famous food is momiji manju — maple-leaf-shaped cakes filled with red bean, custard, or chocolate (¥100-150 each). Try them freshly fried at street stalls for a crispy version. Grilled oysters (kaki) are the island's other specialty — stands on Omotesando shopping street sell them for ¥200-400 each (season: October-March, but available year-round). The street also has Japan's largest rice paddle (shamoji), shops selling handcrafted wooden items, and local craft workshops. For a sit-down meal, anago (conger eel) on rice (¥1,800-2,500) at Ueno or Fujitaya is exceptional.
Tip: Buy momiji manju from Iwamura Honten for traditional flavors or Miyajima Bakery for creative ones like maple-cheese — both on Omotesando.
